WSJ.com - The L.A. Noir Tour (Go-go bars, pickup parlors and derby dames)

If your fancy runs more toward girls beating one another insensate for sport, perhaps you'll be lucky enough to find yourself in La-La while roller derby season's hitting the boards. The tough-love L.A. Derby Dolls have built a gritty little mini-empire at The Doll Factory (1910 W. Temple St., derbydolls.com/la) on the east side of town, in a neighborhood where you wouldn't take your grandmother (unless your grandmother already lived there).

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